Just An Interesting Use of Railroad Track

I thought I'd post this just for fun.  I worked with several fellow inspectors on an old church that was being sold by the Catholic Diocese here in Cleveland.  Very interesting job overall, as the sale consisted of several buildings including a school.  In one class room there were photos of the presidents they stopped at Nixon- his photo had "1968"- beneath it!

The house used by the priests was using this railroad track for the main beam in the basement!  My fellow inspector noted that it was probably from a light gauge trolley that used to run here in Cleveland.

"I Wonder What They Did Here?"- Your Building Dept. and Your Soon to be Neighbors May Have the Answers

The other day I inspected a home for a client that was more than doubled in square footage by additions.  They went up and out, bathrooms, second floor living rooms and laundry etc.  Sometimes this can be done very tastefully with the proper architect.  

This particular expansion left me scratching my head, and my only conclusion was that there was no architect or just a bad one.  As an example, there were multiple areas where as many as four doors could be opened to collide with each other- just not good practice.  

 Bottom line is that when you're buying a house and have large scale questions, the city building department can hold many answers.  Sometimes they'll remember the project and can give you some names of contractors who were part of the work.  Other times they won't know any work at all was done (no permits pulled) which, if it's a large project like the house I was inspecting was, can raise red flags as to the quality of the contractor (or homeowner) who did the work.  

Lastly, neighbors can hold a lot of information.  I often break the ice with my inspection clients and the neighbors so that they can ask some questions about the history of the house, and also meet their new neighbors!  Sometimes the neighbors even come to us, which always endears the neighborhood to the clients.

So, don't hesitate to contact the city or neighbors to ask about a the history of a house you're looking at.  Neither costs a thing and you never know what you might find out.

What is it?

I'll finish up the home inspection series shortly.  In the meantime I thought this was interesting.

What is it?

I came across one of these in an old house in Gates Mills.  It was on the ceiling of the detached garage.  Luckily, the caretaker of the estate is a retired fireman so he gave me the scoop.  From about 1870-1910 fire “grenades” were marketed as a form of fire extinguisher.  They contain a chemical, in most cases carbon-tetrachloride or CTC.  Some early ones used salt water.  Used for electrical fires, they were mostly removed by the 1950s due to the dangerous nature of the chemical inside- repeated exposure damages the nervous system and internal organs, and with heat CTC converts to Phosgene gas which was used as chemical weapon.  This particular type would have a lead wire that would melt and release the chemical.  If you come across one, tell your client that they have a dangerous but valuable antique, best removed.

Home Inspection Pt 4

In the previous posts about home inspections, I discussed a lot of the typical business aspects, how to choose your inspector, what t o expect etc.  

I had left off with a quick discussion of the roof inspection.  As I continue to work on the exterior, I'll examine the gutters, downspouts, look at the siding etc.  Many times it's important to view the vegetation around the house; trees and shrubs can add to the ailments of a home if overgrown or placed poorly.  A good inspector might mention that that beautiful old tree may be a few years from needing a very expensive removal.

Grading around the house will also receive scrutiny as it can contribute to basement and foundation moisture problems.  The Garages and sheds will get thorough inspections of all components during the exterior inspections.  

Once on the inside, most inspectors set up shop in the kitchen.  From there, we'll head out to the attic, living spaces, and basement.  Furnaces will be run, hot water tanks will be examined, as well as air conditioners, and filters etc.  A note about air conditioners.  The outside temperature must have remained above approx. 62 degrees for the previous 24 hours to safely test a central air unit.  There is oil in the system that can thicken in cooler temperatures, and if run at temps below 62 degrees F the system can be "slugged"  causing damage.   

It's fairly common to recommend cleaning and further evaluation, as it seems most people just don't take care of their furnaces.  I can't tell you how many filthy filters I see.  Such a simple performance and health effecting component to maintain, and yet they're not (so stop reading and check that filter!  Mark the install date with a Sharpy!)

.

Inspectors need to access the attic.  If they can fit, and the space is safe, ie. no possible asbestos, raccoon, etc, then they need to get inside.  On some houses, much can be seen from the access holes, and that may suffice.

Same applies to the roof.  If it's safe to walk, then I walk it.  Some roofs aren't safe- the pitch is too steep, it's wet, shingles are loose, slate and wood shakes can't be walked.  If I can't walk the roof, I use binoculars and really take my time looking.  If possible, I ask for any documentation on the roof.   Many homeowners will display everything they've spent money on, which is great for the buyers knowledge.

Be sure to understand the things the inspector is telling you.  I ask clients to tell me if I'm talking above or below them.  I want you to know and understand.  It's typical for me to make a lot of sketches to illustrate comments.  

In the next post, I'll talk about what happens at the end of the inspection.  This is another very important time for everyone involved to understand what has been reported.

Home Inspection PT 3

So in this third installment on home inspections, I'll talk about the actual inspection process.

Each inspector is different in their approach, some use laptops, some paper forms, there is even software out there will do a report on an iphone.  Because of all the differences, I'll just talk about how I do it, with some added comments here and there.

After all the paper work is completed, email confirmations, additional inspections scheduled (Radon, pest, well, septic etc) I arrive an hour prior to the clients and realtors.  This gives me time to conduct the exterior inspection and then bring interested parties up to speed when they arrive.   A bit about interested parties- obviously the client is interested, but this varies with each one.  Some stick to me like glue, I even bring an extra flashlight for them if they'd like.  Others measure rooms and mentally place their furniture during the inspection, and there are even those who are traveling for work etc. that can't be present.  It's clearly best to have the client there, but sometimes it's just not possible.  When this is the case, I'm sure to include extra photos as well as making extra effort at having an uninterrupted phone conversation.  Most seem to fit into the drifting in and out of the inspection, which is fine.  I call them over from time to time to show something I think they need to see visually.

Realtors are another issue.  In my opinion, at minimum, a good realtor will be present at the inspection wrap up.  I'd say 99% of my clients ask "is it worth the money?"  This isn't my area of expertise, and the realtor should jump in at this point and contribute to the discussion.  The problem is, with cheap houses, and the increasing time necessary to complete home inspections, it's difficult for realtors to be present.  There are pros and cons to this, and it varies by realtor.  Some butt in and contradict my opinion "oh, that's not a problem" etc.  The good ones simply want to sort the information for their client in a useful way "we'll ask the sellers about that" or "that's something we didn't know and it's significant, so we'll have to discuss how to handle that".

Some just give me a combo code to get in the house and inspect.  Some companies don't want their realtors around us during the inspection, which isn't a bad thing because we are on a tight time schedule.
Either way, just be aware of the differences and perhaps you can ask your realtor their approach to home inspections prior to selecting them for a good match to how you'd.

So, back to the exterior.  I begin the inspection by looking a google maps.  Is there a dump through the woods?  I've had this happen.  Once I found a mulching facility past the treeline.  All day trucks came and went, which we clearly heard inside the house, along with a giant stump grinding machine that ran about 12 hours a day.  Sometimes the inspection isn't just about what sets within the property lines.  Driving through the neighborhood can also provide clues.  In a neighborhood where every house has a Radon mitigation pipe sticking up, I might make one more attempt to get the client to test for Radon (in the event that they declined at the initial booking of the inspection).  Other times, I might notice that all the chimneys are heavily deteriorated, which will lead me to look very closely at the clients new home.  This won't work everywhere, as sometimes the houses were built over a wide range of years, but it's good to be aware of these things.

Out front, I stand well back from the house and walk all the way around it, just looking at the overall structure.  I'm looking for roof sag, and to get a general idea about the structure, ie. dormers, where rooms are, plumbing vent stacks etc.  Then I start with a full roof inspection.  Whenever possible, I walk the roof.  Sometimes the pitch is too steep for it, and I use binoculars.  The chimney, flashings and gutters/downspouts are all part of this inspection.  I like to look down the chimney if possible.  A general home inspection can never see the entire lining, only a camera can do that, but you can tell a lot, and sometimes a camera is recommended.

Well, again, I'm writing a book where I set out to do a chapter, so I'll be back in another post to further discuss the process, and I'd also like to talk about the effect the television show Holmes on Homes has had- in my humble opinion.

Home Inspections PT 2

Here is my second in a series on home inspections.  In my previous post, I wrote about ASHI, or the American Society of Home Inspectors and about the fact that Ohio is a state that does not require a license for a home inspector. 

In this second part, I’d like to explain a bit about the actual inspection process. 

So you’re purchasing a new home, and you’ve selected a home inspector who you feel comfortable talking with etc.  The date and time are set.  Anything else?

When booking the inspection, a good inspector will inquire whether or not the home has city water and sewer.  If you’re purchasing a home with a well or septic system, these typically require additional inspections.  A few home inspectors hold a license to inspect septic, but most do not.  These two components of a property can add up to a very large sum if it’s necessary to repair of replace them, so inspecting prior to purchase is important.  If you need these additional services, your inspector or realtor should be able to help.  I’ll post more on each on these particular situations later.

Also consider having a Radon test done for you.  Radon is a gas emitted as Uranium in rock and soil breaks down, and it is considered a health risk.  It can have elevated levels in any type of house based on the home’s construction, heating and cooling properties, and other properties.  Again, a rather involved subject, so I’ll follow up with a dedicated post.  Know that some areas in North East Ohio, such as Lake and Lorain Counties seem to have higher Radon levels.  Again, the inspector and realtor should be able to guide you.

A good home inspector is going to already have asked you or your realtor if the home is occupied, if utilities are on etc.  If the utilities are not on, the inspection will not give you all the information you’ll need.  This is very important, so confirm that water, gas, and electric are all turned on for the inspection.  Sometimes it’s just not possible to inspect with all on, but try.

On the day of the inspection, when you arrive, there will typically be a contract to sign between the buyer and the inspector.  This is known as the pre inspection agreement, and it lays out in writing exactly what you can expect from the inspector, what he can and can’t do, what he will and won’t do etc.  Remember, no inspector can see through walls.  They are conducting a general, non-exhaustive inspection.   This means they can take the cover off the furnace to observe operation, but they can’t disassemble it as a heating and cooling contractor would do.   Your inspector may advise just such an inspection in his report, but he or she would not be doing that themselves.  Think of the inspector as a generalist who may call for specialist evaluation.

It’s important for you, the client to be present during the inspection.  The final report will be filled with information, but much more information can be provided verbally, and it’s a great chance to ask questions and lean about things.  It’s always surprising how many clients don’t think this is important.  Everyone is different, and you don’t have to stick like glue to your inspector, but just being present somewhere in the house allows them to call you over to show you something they’ve found that you may need to see to understand. 

In my next post I’ll talk about the actual process of the inspection.

Home Inspections

Spring is almost here, and that means home sales (or so we all hope).  When buying a home, a professional home inspection is an important piece of the process.  Who are professional home inspectors and what do they do?  How do you find one?  My next few posts will deal with this.  First, some basics.

In the state of Ohio, there are no licensed home inspectors.  In the United States, as of this writing, roughly 30 states require a state license for a home inspector.  So, you live in Ohio, what should you do?  Hire a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, or ASHI.  ASHI is the oldest professional trade association for home inspectors, founded in 1976 to establish professionalism in the field.  Most all states that develop license programs do so using ASHI's standards of practice and ethics.  ASHI recently established an independent certification process for their inspectors, adding to their credentials.

To become a certified ASHI inspector, a new associate member must take the ASHI standards and ethics exam, take the National Home Inspector Exam, conduct 250 paid inspections (which are audited) and maintain annual continuing education credits.  Many, such as myself, belong to and are active leaders of local chapters that conduct educational class, seminars and meetings.

Simply put, there is no substitute.  If you're in the market for an inspector, choose the best.  The ASHI website can assist you in finding an inspector in your area.

My next post will deal with what to expect from an inspection, and then my last in this series will deal with how to select an inspector.

Vent Free Fireplaces

This past January, my local ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) chapter was privileged to have a class conducted by Dominion East Ohio's Safety and Performance Specialist Don MacBride.  He provided an excellent class for our members in hopes that we help to pass along important safety information.

One of the subjects that always gets home inspectors debating is vent free, or ventless fireplaces.  These are inserts or free standing units that burn natural gas (or in some cases propane), yet require no venting to the exterior. 

With proper installation, maintenance and operation, some can burn with as much as 99.9% efficiency.  A proper burning flame will release very little byproducts, which are the main problem when these units are not operating correctly.  A proper flame will have a inner blue flame, surrounded by a slightly larger flame.  In the chart below, you can see the difference between a properly adjusted flame (A), and a poorly adjusted flame (C).  This also applies to your furnace, hot water tank etc.

 

What's bad about vent less fireplaces, is that if the flame is not properly adjusted, it is creating a combustion hazard that is trapped in your home.  Fro this reason, they are illegal in some states.   They can deplete oxygen and create carbon monoxide if not properly installed and in good working order.  Most units will have an oxygen depletion sensor.  Another unwanted  byproduct of combustion is moisture, and this can lead to too much moisture in a room, contributing to possible mold or mildew growth.  

Of note was how a flame reacted when it came in contact with something.  A very clean burning flame would become a very "dirty" flame when something was placed in it's path.  What I quickly thought of was how many of these vent free fireplaces have fake gas logs that are loose in the cradle.  They can be placed over the flame an cause an inefficient burn.  Newer units have non-moveable fake logs.  

If you have one of these units in your home, it's important that you recognize the possible dangers and provide proper maintenance.  I recommend having it inspected at minimum annually by a licensed heating and cooling contractor or fireplace professional.  Make sure you have carbon monoxide detectors in your home as well, and recognize that an abundance of moisture in the home (streaming water on windows etc.) is telling you that something is wrong.  It may just be that your humidifier is set too high or the bath vent isn't working right, but don't take chances with this.  Have that vent less fireplace checked out.