Traditional foundation materials are stone, brick, concrete block, cinder block, poured concrete, and in many locations clay tile. In older homes, keeping the basement dry was never intended. Basements were simply an extension of the footer that was needed in areas were the ground freezes. By digging below the frost line, around 3 feet, the structure could be made stable and not subject to frost heave that comes with the freeze/thaw cycles. Dig another few feet and you could stand up and store some items in basements
Over time, building techniques improved, as did our need for space. Enter the finished basement. Suddenly we expected that hole in the ground to be dry and comfortable. In modern construction, this is more easily done through the use of drainage systems and sealed exterior walls.
If you're among those who don't live in a newer home, you might have a clay tile foundation. This was a structural block made of clay, much like a flower pot. It can also be compared to a chimney flue. Typically they have one or two hollow chambers, open on the ends. Unlike today's more common concrete block, which also has hollow chambers, these would be laid in place with their hollow core horizontally. They are often fluted, with "grooves" parallel to the hollow chamber. I've seen flat ones, glazed ones, square ones, they come in many varieties.
Here is an example of a clay tile. It's been painted white on the outside. Normally, you won't see the open ends like this. |
The pros to the builders were their weight and cost. The cons to the the homeowner is that they could be considered inherently wet by design. By having all those horizontally aligned cores, water leaking into your basement at the corner of your foundation can travel the length of the all and appear anywhere, making locating the leaking area difficult.
In addition, these blocks tend to soak up moisture when it's wet and release it when it's dry. The trouble is, many people paint over these blocks in an attempt to "water proof" their basement walls. The paint will fail, and once painted, the cycle of scraping and painting will never cease.
So, now that I've talked about all the trouble with these clay tile blocks, what can you do if you have them in your basement? If a dry basement is desired, it may never be completely possible, but there are always solutions.
Before you do anything, make sure your walls are sound. There should be no large cracks or bowing, which could indicate structural problems. As home inspectors, when we see things we're not sure of in foundations, we recommend structural engineers to further evaluate the walls. They will typically charge a fee for their service, and will provide you with written documentation stating the foundation is stable or in need of repair.
Keep in mind that free estimates are usually given when the company evaluating the work also wants the job of repairing it. If you're not comfortable with the information received, contact another company and compare the information.
I'll continue this discussion in my next blog, talking a bit about the exterior drainage systems used in older homes and going over possible causes of wet basements. I'll also make suggestions for determining the specific cause of your water trouble and then discussing different types of repairs.
Hi Bill I have been reading your blog and you seem very knowledgeable on wet older basements. I do have some questions I would like to ask you. Or perhaps you can point me to a site that explains in greater detail the century old homes with lime mortar brick sitting on sandstone with some kind of curved interior clay wall on the interior of the basement? Thanks many
ReplyDeleteDid you ever specify which type of waterproofing works best with the clay tile foundation? I have a 1922 home that has this type of construction and need to get the water out.
ReplyDeleteThe best, and unfortunately most expensive and disruptive cure is the exterior dig to the footer tiles (if there are any). When the excavation is done, you'll know what you're dealing with (footer drains or no footer drains) and can make a decision how to proceed. You may need to drain the footers to an interior sump if you have no street storm sewers or live where you can't create drainage from gravity.
ReplyDeleteWhen the hole is open, the contractor should parge (apply a skim coating of mortar) over the tiles and then seal them. In addition there are a host of newer type systems of drainage plane boards that can be placed against the walls prior to backfilling with gravel. This protects the parge/waterproof coating as well as allowing some free drainage vertically to the footer drains.
In the end, the tiles are probably still set on soil, the basement floor probably has no gravel or moisture barrier (plastic sheeting is now used) beneath the concrete, so it will never be as dry as a new home, but with luck, you won't have a running river and a dehumidifier should be able to help with what wicks up through the floor (try not to use floor coverings that won't allow moisture to pass thru).
Dear Bill,
ReplyDeleteI want to cover some ceramic red tiles in my basement on an interior wall. I want to know what is best to cover it with. It is not subject to moisture except from other parts of the basement. It is uneven and the tiles have grooves on them with mortar in between. I thought an interior stucco would look good, can I use joint compound?
Molly, you could do some sort of stucco finish over that wall, but stay away from joint compound; it's really just for drywall and may not dry. If you look around a bit, you should be able to find some exterior stucco mixes at home centers. It would be with the cement etc. Get a board, lean it against a wall so you're working on a vertical surface and practice with it a bit first. It's tricky stuff to do well, but you may have the touch that's needed.
DeleteLook on youtube for some stucco techniques, there a several common patterns. There is one method, I think it's called tossing but I can't remember exactly. A coat of stucco is applied, then sand or small pebbles are literally tossed against the wet stucco. It is often seen on turn of the century faux stucco homes.
Hope that helps a bit.
Bill,
ReplyDeleteWe have a house built in 1920 that has a Terra Cotta Foundation with 4"x8"x12" blocks with 2 holes going through the long dimension. Do you know of any sources for purchasing some replacement blocks for repairs? Thanks!
Andy, Sorry for my long delayed reply. Busy inspection season. I'm not sure where you could buy clay tiles today. They may still be produced, but I've not seen them anywhere. I'd try a few building supply companies in your area. Try going to the older ones in town first, and concentrate on supply companies that sell foundation materials, concrete block, also chimney flue tiles etc. Good luck, and if you do find them, post back with a photo. Thanks, Bill
DeleteHi Bill,
ReplyDeleteWe just bought a house in Cleveland Heights, and I had a few questions I hope you might answer:
1) We have been give 2 build dates for the house. One in 1925, and the other in 1942. It has a clay tile foundation, of the type you have pictured in your blog post. Would that suggest that the older date is the correct date?
2) The tiles are painted a mint green. Is there a way to remove the paint from these bricks without damaging or dissolving them?
3) I would love to put a texture up on these walls, such as the stucco product you mention above. But, our agent told us that whatever is put on these walls must be able to breathe, or else you start a clock toward replacing the foundation, as soil moisture saturates these bricks and dissolves it from the outside, in towards the impermeable surface of paint. Will the commercial exterior stucco breathe? I moved from the southwest, and there were natural mixes that advertised that they breathe, which sounds good in this case, I suppose. Thoughts?
Josh and April,
DeleteCongrats on the new house. On the build date, you might want to check with the building dept. at Cleveland Hts. The county website also has property information but sometimes there are gaps. I'm guessing the city will be of most help. Cleveland Hts. was largely developed by the War, but there were neighborhoods that came a bit later.
On the paint removal, I'm not sure how you'd get it off. I have a friend who's letting time do it for her, and it's been taking a VERY long time!
With regards to putting a texture on it, I'd lean away from it. Your agent is right about saying anytime you paint masonry you've started a scrape and repaint cycle that never ends. If you really want to, you could do an experiment on a small portion and see what happens. Be patient and give it a season or two to really get an idea of how it works for you. '
Hope that helps a bit, welcome to Cleveland !
Bill
Hi Bill,
ReplyDeleteSorry to comment on such an old post, but we just bought an old home (Lakewood) and this is relevant to us. The basement is clay tile and while I agree that waterproofing as you describe above is the best solution, it is cost prohibitive for us at this point. The foundation is solid and I would like to paint the walls and floor just to make it look better, but in reading your post and the comments I want to make sure we don't do anything to harm the foundation or force it to hold more moisture. Will painting it harm the foundation? If not, what type of paint / primer would you recommend for the walls? Can I just use a masonry floor paint for the floor or would I be trapping moisture that way as well? Thanks for your help.
Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been blogging lately, it's been a very busy summer and fall for housing sales. I would recommend taking some photos on your phone and going to a paint store that sells better paints, Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore etc. If you can go during the weekday, you'll be able to talk to an employee who handles commercial accounts, they're the most experienced and should be able to give the best advice on paint selection.
DeleteJust know that whatever you put on those walls will come off at some point, it all depends on the degree of prep and how much moisture you're dealing with.
Hi Bill -
ReplyDeleteI have an old house with these exact brick walls. Recently I've discovered a hole in the concrete floor about 12" from the wall. I would like your expert opinion on who to call - a waterproofer or foundation repair? Not sure where to begin.
It's not connected to the sewer (had it checked) - there is moist dirt below the hole. I live in Cleveland if you can even recommend someone.
Thank you for your time.
HI Bill,
ReplyDeleteI'm an Akron resident with one of these painted basements. The paint is flaking off of the walls, and my realtor advised me to either cover up the paint with panelling, or remove the paint altogether before selling the house. What do you think is the best method to remove the paint? Wire brush? Pressure wash?
Thanks,
Dan
Dan, first off, I wouldn't cover it up. It might look good for awhile with paneling, but you'd have a little mold factory behind it for sure. Removing it might be difficult but I'd give it a try. I know from a selling standpoint that these walls look bad, but personally, from a home inspector standpoint, I never mind seeing an old ugly wall. It gives me a lot of long term information that I can tell the client. Fresh work, on the other hand, leaves me telling them I can't tell them much, that the work is new, and I don't know if it was to hide something or was just done because they thought it would look better.
ReplyDeleteI have a friend who has clay tile walls, she's been letting the paint flake off for years, maybe 10+ now and it's still not all off, but the wall is looking better and better as it does fall off. Problem is, she'll probably move before it's all off!
Bill,
ReplyDeleteI have this type of foundation. There are some large holes in some of the block and we would like to seal them up. Is there anything you would recommend? Is it safe to Morter these blocks?
Hi, Bill.
ReplyDeleteI live in a Lakewood home built around 1920 with terracotta brick basement walls, which previous owners had painted with Drylok. A lot of the paint has peeled/bubbled and/or discolored. Additionally, mold has grown in some places, particularly the corners. I’m assuming there is moisture in the walls, but at this time, I do not see any significant structural issues, such as bowing. However, there is at least one mostly horizontal crack (~5-6”) near the floor, and another wall had a single brick that had mostly crumbled to the point where I could see outside (a little above ground level), which has been patched. I’m looking for a recommendation on how to proceed as to whether I should patch from the inside and re-grade outside, as needed, or if I should bite the bullet and have exterior waterproofing done. Thank you for any advice.
Bill,
ReplyDeleteWould it be practical or even possible to inject mortar thru holes in terracotta block to seal them?
Great post! Thank you. We have a 1929 house in w. clay tile basement -in Rocky River. We purchased it 3 years ago. Previous owners finished the basement and put up white painted wood panels and carpet. The panels have some spots on the floor that show moisture damage/discoloration. We may replace the baseboards. We just pulled up the carpet today and found a bunch of moist patches in the wood and some along the perimeters, which is where there were downspouts from the roof. We will fix the downspouts to promote better drainage. Doing the expensive excavation route is not an option at this time. For now we plan to clean w. soap,water and bleach, dry out, get more dehumidifiers and new carpet. hope it works
ReplyDeleteWhen the hole is open, the contractor should parge (apply a skim coating of mortar) over the tiles and then seal them. In addition there are a host of newer type systems of drainage wet basementplane boards that can be placed against the walls prior to backfilling with grave
ReplyDeleteHi Bill, I own a home in Lakewood and my basement appears to be made of concrete blocks but recently I was trying to reinforce the joists under the front porch but to attach a ledger board to the front of the house I would have to drill into what appears to be terracotta brick. Can I drill into that?
ReplyDeleteI have the same problem. I have had great success with hydraulic cement. To avoid more water runoff from the ground helps. I am planning on doing a French drain behind my house to redirect the water. Once I feel I have alleviated it I am thinking about trying the Ace Hardware Blue Max. Only the bottom three courses of my foundation are the clay terra cotta blocks. The front fortunately is not underground but the back sets down in the ground. The bottom is where the water is coming in.
ReplyDelete